Introduction: How to Gain a Carving Knife With Specific Tools

This is something I've wanted to make for quite a while. Its a simple carving knife that I plan to use for marking and some occasional whittling. Little knives like these can come in rattling William Christopher Handy in the shop. Since I wanted to make one I figured I would challenge myself and make IT using only hand tools. I feel like its a good physical exertion to get back to basics all formerly and a while. If you deficiency to know how I made this please keep on reading.

I think this video compliments this Instructable quite well:

Step 1:

First I chose a shape that looked about right and Drew IT on to a cutoff piece of 1095 steel that I had left terminated. Since this requires a comparatively small piece of steel this would be a complete project for left ended scraps. I took advantage of the shape of the cutoff to minimize the cutting I would take over to do. Adjacent I chucked the piece of steel in my vise and began to cut as or so line as I could manage. I had to wont my larger hacksaw to cut the thirster section. The last picture shows the rough shape after cutting.

Materials:

1095 Knife steel 5/8 inch wide aside 3 inches long by 1/8 inch heavyset

2 inch nightlong brass perch 1/8 inch diameter

Wood (preferably hardwood) 5 inches long x 1-1/4 inches wide x 5/8 edge in soupy

Tools:

Marker

Hacksaw

Vise

Mill File

1/8 in diam drill morsel

3 clamps

Sandpaper (320-2000 grit)

Hand saw

Small mini files

Hand drill

Propane torch

Peanut oil

Pliers

Epoxy resin

Ball Peen Hammer

Header Saw

Wood file

Danish Chinese wood oil - Dingy Walnut

Step 2:

Next I cleaned the shape of the blade using my file. I made sure to reposition the blade in my vise to allow Pine Tree State to off the material from all the different sides. The parting picture shows the clean up version of the vane.

Step 3:

I used a Sharpie marking to paint the blade edge and misused a drilling bit that is the same thickness A the steel to scrivener a line down the middle of the boundary. I put across the blade on a flat skin-deep and utilization the point of the drill second to marker the center lines. These will serve as my guide lines for shaping the bevels. The plan is to file to these lines from some sides which should issue in equal bevels on both sides of the blade.

Footprint 4:

I drew in the close together stature of the bevel I was trying to achieve, I was just eyeballing here, I'm not stickler for perfection. Then I clamped the blade to my employment bench and began to archive material. I tried to keep the file at a invariable angle and tried non to go past my edge scribed line. I worked the file to increase the bevel up to my transition line. Once I was done with unmatchable side I flipped the blade over and repeated the process.

Step 5:

The first picture shows what the bevel looks care, now information technology was fourth dimension to clean up the scratch marks left over from the file. I used 320 grit sandpaper and started to sand. In that respect is a luck of sanding. I wrapped the sandpaper around the file and secondhand it to draw lodge the blade. This is where you hold the file nonconvergent to the vane and pull from the clamp towards yourself in one motility. This is through sol that the sanding/scratch marks are single. The end here is to try and remove all the scratch marks left from the previous grit of sandpapers. Once the lines started to disappear I went up in sandpaper grit stopping at 600 grit.

Step 6:

Hither you terminate see what the blade looks like-minded ahead the sanding. The scratches left from the file are identical visible. The second picture shows what the blade looks equal after all the sanding.

Step 7:

I had several scrap pieces of Mesquit wood flooring and decided to use it for the handle any piece of woodwind instrument will work but if you have a hardwood use it. I marked my centerline and depth on the forest.

Pace 8:

I used my carpenter's saw to cut down the center origin and then my small file to remove more of the material until the blade fit snugly in the gap.

Step 9:

I wanted to make sure the steel was properly secured and then I marked to pin holes and then used my hand drill to practice session both holes. You can see in the picture that I used clamps to secure the objet d'art in place to bore the holes. Ideally this would be done on a drill press using a vice but in keeping with the manus tool only challenge I victimized my give drill.

NOTE: After you drill the first trap make sure to stick out a pin therein hole to keep the blade from moving when drilling the second hole. This will keep all the holes seamed up when it comes time to glue everything together.

Step 10:

Now IT was time to heat do by the blade. I used my handheld propane flashlight, which is actually for soldering copper, to heat the blade up until it was no longer magnetic. Once at the temperature I quenched the blade in groundnut oil until cool. I checked the hardness by running a file out across the edge to see if it dug in to the edge or not. Luckily the file skated right off the edge pregnant that the blade was hardened. If the file had dug in to and scraped the edge and so I would have had to try and rut treat the steel again.

Abuse 11:

The blade was pretty filthy after the slake. I used close to 600 grit sand wallpaper to clean off the scale. You motive a clean blade for the tempering so that you can see the color change. If the blade is to the full of scale and crud then you won't be able to see the color change caused by the tempering. This bequeath shuffle more sense in the side by side step.

Step 12:

Usually I would use my oven to temper the blade. Simply since I was sticking to hand tools I fired up my torch again and slowly heated the blade until it reached a dark stubble or metal-ish color. (This can also be achieved exploitation a preheated oven placed at 400 degrees Fahrenheit. You would simply place the blade in the oven for single hour at that temperature.)

Step 13:

I used my hacksaw to cut a couple of brass pins from a 1/8 in diam rod.

Step 14:

I cleaned up the leaf blade once more victimization 600 grit sand paper and removed the dark straw tinge. I also took the time to sand the top of what would cost the long pillow section of the handle. This arena is very unenviable to sand once everything is glued together so coif information technology at present earlier the paste up. I did a quick mental testing fit to take in sure everything fit nicely.

Step 15:

I successful sure to tape ahead the blade, this will protect it from any epoxy that may wring out during the glue up. I then mixed a two part 5 careful epoxy until it was a uniform color. I am victimization a small silicone polymer bowl and popsicle stick to mix the epoxy. The epoxy volition not stick around to the silicone bowl so clean up is fairly easy. The arena is non necessary you can just ruffle the epoxy on close to lineup card with a scrap piece of forest.

Step 16:

I used 5 minute epoxy so I made foreordained entirely my pieces were clean and nonrandom in front the glue up. Once the epoxy was mixed I spread it on to and in to all the nooks and crannies. I slide the pins in plaza and tapped them in mildly with a small hammer. Then I cleaned off any supernumerary epoxy using Acetone.

Step 17:

Since the pin area was so pocket-sized I peened the pins in situ to lock in everything in position. Tapping the pins in put will stop up the handle to the blade. I let the epoxy glue heal over night before moving on to the next mistreat.

Step 18:

Next I drew on the rough shape of the handle. I was just sort of dead reckoning what shape would work here. I used my coping saw to cut inaccurate the excess. Allow for some extra material on the handle so that you can shape it to fit your hand.

Step 19:

Now it was time to refine the shape of the hold. I used my files, rasp and sand paper to square away the care. As I shaped information technology I would hold it in my hand to make sure the fit was good. Erstwhile I was happy I sanded IT up to 600 grit.

Step 20:

With the handle plastic done I sharpened the brand victimisation some 1000 and 2000 gritstone sandpaper. The sandpaper is just taped to a flat piece of wood.

Step 21:

To get through the grip I applied 4 coats of Dark Walnut Danish pastry Chinese wood oil. I father't add any polyurethane because I like the smel of the Danish pastry Anele finish but if you would like a shrimpy more protective cover use a polyurethane to protect the wood.

Step 22:

Making something is always rewarding but when I apply as a couple of tools as latent its just a little more rewarding. It also gives my a renewed taste for all my ability tools too. I hope you enjoyed this Instructable if you have any questions I will do my best to essay and answer them below.

I project to embark this in the Hand out Tool Competition, if you guess I merit a suffrage please balloting for my Instructable. Give thanks you.

Link to build video:

1 Person Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Anything Goes Contest 2022

    Anything Goes Contest 2022